Earthbag Roundhouse/Dome Cluster
Specifications: 1,330 sq. ft. interior including lofts in the roundhouse and both large domes, 2 bedroom, 2 bath, Footprint: 31′ x 70′
Description: Readers have shown a strong interest in my domes and roundhouses, so I decided to cluster them to create a new unique design for larger families. There is a 2-story roundhouse in the center with domes on the east and west. There are a lot of things to like about this design: possible third bedroom, game room or home office in the roundhouse loft, 2 baths, separated bedrooms, large walk-in closets, dining area next to the windows, and lots of south-facing doors and windows.
Click here for a larger image of floorplan.
I’m not sure when I’ll get around to drawing the exterior elevation view. But it’s easy to imagine since the design is similar to my other 2-story Roundhouse and Enviro Dome.
I forgot to draw the beam in the roundhouse. See those three round poles? There should be a dashed line through them denoting the loft on the north half. The south half is open to the ceiling.
Hello,
I just stumbled on your site and love your designs. I am planning on building a home soon within the year and have been contemplating building an earth home. I have a few questions and was wondering if you could help me. I havn’t started building yet and I am sure I will have more questions as the project progresses.
What is the largest diameter a room can be so that the wall can still continue to contour to shape the dome roof without it collapsing in on itself?
What is the pitch/ratio to actually making the domed roof so that it does not cave in on itself and collapse?
Can you use a concrete mortar mix and shoot it onto the outside and inside to give it a smooth appearance or do you have to use some other material that won’t crack down the road?
Thanks for any help you can offer. Hope to hear from you.
~ Shane
Be sure to read Kelly Hart’s Earthbag FAQ page. He’s spent years responding to general questions and has compiled an excellent resource:
http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/faqs.htm
The largest safe diameter is somewhere around 20′. A lot depends on the shape, size and number of openings, buttressing, accurate placement of bags, etc. A loft adds a lot of strength. A more conical shape is more stable than a more rounded shape.
Dome shape is based on corbelling, where each course (row) of bags protrudes or overhangs the previous course. Most often the corbel is 1″-4″. Too much corbel and the dome becomes unstable.
Most earthbag domes use lime or cement plaster on the exterior. You can shoot it on or apply by hand. The exterior finish will likely require periodic maintenance. On the interior, I recommend earth plaster for its ease of application and super natural qualities (acoustics, color, humidity control, etc.).
Hello,
I love your dome cluster design. I am hoping to build a cluster of domes like your design possibly next year or so. However, I was shocked to see photos of the beautiful cluster of domes that was built in the Phillipines and of its present state. I am wondering if putting tiles on the roof would help to avoid the same problem, as the area where I plan to build the domes, the raifall is 1200 mm per year,(Gin Gin, Queensland, Australia). Or perhaps you could tell me how to avoid this problem on the roof of a dome.
Hello,
I love your dome cluster design. I am hoping to build a cluster of domes like your design possibly next year or so. However, I was shocked to see photos of the beautiful cluster of domes that was built in the Phillipines and of its present state. I am wondering if putting tiles on the roof would help to avoid the same problem, as the area where I plan to build the domes, the raifall is 1200 mm per year,(Gin Gin, Queensland, Australia). Or perhaps you could tell me how to avoid this problem on the roof of a dome.
Thanks for your help and I hope to hear from you.
maria
Yeah, it was sad to see that clinic in such disrepair. But keep in mind every building method has drawbacks. Wood houses, for instance, will burn, rot, attract termites, etc. The key is to use good design to prevent problems. Obviously, using a layer of clay soil under the cement plaster does not work.
Domes evolved in desert regions where wood is scarce. In a high rainfall area like where you live, I suggest adding a roof. You could use tiles, metal roofing, etc. Here’s an example in Australia of a dome with a roof.
Google “Super Adobe”, they have the same bag principle but use longer bags that you can choose the length, eliminating multiple joints. You can make each layer one solid course of earth which im sure would make it stronger. Just a thought, ive been researching this for days now since i saw this site, i cant wait to build one of these some day!
Using long poly tubes as you describe is an option. However, most people seem to prefer typical grain bags for a number of reasons.
– Poly tubes are somewhat difficult to fill. At least two people are required. And for the person holding the tube, it is quite strenuous work. (Or you can buy/build a device to help fill them.)
– They need to be special ordered, whereas grain bags can often be picked up locally from farmers (often recycled) at lower cost.
– One person can fill and tamp grain bags.
For me, I would only use the tubes where strength was the critical factor.
Couldn’t the large round be a dome, too?
I’d really like to see more of your work in domes. Conventional roofs seem to defeat the whole point of earthbagging, IMO…
Thanks for the input. I’m always looking for suggestions and am eager hear what people are interested in.
The roundhouse could be built as a dome, but you’re pushing the limits of safety (it’s 24′ interior DIA). The largest round earthbag dome built so far is 27′ feet: http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/projects/omdome.htm. At that size the Om Dome builders were off only slightly on their corbels and had to rebuild a portion. This illustrates how large earthbag domes are tricky.
Also, you would lose much of the loft space. There is no one solution that works for everyone. Some people don’t like domes, for instance. I’d rather see people build a home that’s 75% of the ideal than nothing at all. And for some there are local timber resources that can be sustainably harvested. So my approach is to provide a wide range of sustainable housing designs.
My query on the matter stems mostly from cost. Any home at all is already a stretch for my budget. Any sort of added expense for a conventional roof essentially takes the idea of being anything but homeless off the table.
I’m trying to find a way to build a reasonable home for pennies (or less) on the dollar of a conventional structure. Anything else is just plain out of the question, and I’ll go find myself a nice cardboard box under an overpass….
I hear you 100%. Billions (with a ‘b’) are in the same situation, and so I’ve spent most of my adult life studying what can be done about this lack of affordable housing. I’ve published quite a bit of free info on using dirt cheap building techniques. Google “Owen Geiger” “dirt cheap” or “Owen Geiger” “sustainable housing”, etc. Also, my Introduction page offers some ideas: https://earthbagplans.wordpress.com/introduction/
Hang in there. Using recycled feed bags, local earth for fill material and plaster, recycled doors and hardware, etc. you can have a real nice home almost for free.
I’d like to see what you can do with the enviro dome and the 2br version, by cutting back in a few areas.
Do you really need a full 4 burner range and oven in a 1br house?
Owen: While you are stating your opinion, these ideas don’t fit for many. Many (most) people want a more conventional kitchen with full-sized appliances. I know, because I’ve been a builder all my life with a lot of time specializing in custom kitchens. That said, you are free to replace or alter the appliances. The drawings here are only suggestions to appeal to a wide audience.
A fireplace for burning trees, even though you were so conscious about not cutting them down for building?
Owen: No one said you have to burn trees. I burned wood scraps and pallets for years.
Is that bar really needed? A smaller sink, etc.
Owen: You are free to alter the cabinets. They’re non-structural. But many (probably most people who would buy these plans) want a well designed kitchen with ample countertop space because they prepare home cooked meals. I’m referring to people who are growing their own food, grinding flour, baking bread, baking, filtering their water, preparing meals from scratch. It’s far more common to hear people complain about lack of countertop space.
See where I’m going with that? Yes, it is a downsized footprint, but with space at a premium, why not trim it up a bit and give it a feel of having more living space even though the total space is less?
Owen: See above. The furniture and cabinet layouts are just suggestions.
Side-by-side washer and dryer? Why not a smaller stackable unit?
Owen: Free standing units as shown are far more common. This means it’s easier to find used, lower cost appliances of higher quality.
A smaller footprint fridge, like many European models. They also tend to be more energy efficient, to boot.
Owen: That’s true, but these are often more expensive or harder to find for Americans. If you have the money for a super efficient refrigerator, fine, just build the cabinets to fit accordingly. Also remember, many folks with gardens and livestock want/need a standard size frig.
In the kitchen, counter space for small appliances that can be put away would be more useful.
Owen: Yes, and you’ll need cabinet space to store those appliances!
Please do not take this as an insult or a flame. I just notice these things and it seems to be in discord with your stated mission.
Owen: I’m not insulted at all. You’re simply stating what works for you, while I’m stating what I believe most customers are looking for.
Solar Ovens live outside, and work well even in the winter.
Owen: I’m all in favor of utilizing appropriate technologies, but it’s impractical to show all the possibilities since everyone’s needs are different. Most people tend to add these one at a time as they transition to a more sustainable lifestyle. In the meantime, they’re looking for plans that include the most common features found in modern homes.
A home like that would offer all the amenities of ‘modern convenience’ while not making one feel like they live in a tiny hole. And, one man can build it alone on a part-time minimum-wage job; if he can find one…
Owen: So yes, you can buy one of my plans and leave out many features to cut costs. But perhaps you’ll want to add them later… and, if so, you’ll have a plan that shows one well thought out option. At least you’ll know the space is there if you need it.
Earth-berm it, build an axial-flux wind turbine (otherpower.com) that can dump-load into heating coils in the winter… You could probably rival the earthship, but on a much more expedient scale = just what humanity ordered.
Owen: I’ve talked about this on my Earthbag Building blog: http://earthbagbuilding.wordpress.com/. You can have all the features of an earthship in an earthbag home at far less labor and cost.
Also keep in mind you can order a custom plan and get everything just the way you want.
Question…… After scoring the circumference of the dome I want to build, suppose I start digging approx. 5 feet down into the earth to get the dirt I need for my bags and also to have a stronger base wall. Then really, I’m only building half a dome (the top half). So from the outside, you would see a small igloo/dome about 6ft high but it was really about 11 ft high from the inside. Could I then make the diameter of the dome larger than normal or would I still have to worry about the top of the dome caving in? Also, what would you recommend as far as keeping it from collecting water, like a basement sometimes does? You wouldn’t want a sump pump in your kitchen I wouldn’t think……. I also have an idea for making the rows of bags more stable by implementing the barbed wire in a different fashion from just having a row of it between every layer of bags. I would also have rows of barbed or bayleen wire about 2ft apart starting from the ground weaving their way upwards between each row of bags like a basket. I think this would help greatly with achieving a larger diameter dome which I feel so many people are looking for with these unique homes. Though, I think this technique would really only work with the long poly bags…. Any thoughts or constructive criticism would be greatly appreciated Owen 🙂 Thanks again for the ideas on this blog!!!
Be careful with the dome shape. I recommend dome shapes used by Doni and Kaki (Earthbag Building book) or Kelly Hart. Kelly Hart’s shape is the most stable for large domes. Hemispheric domes, for example, will not work. Like I said, be careful because large domes are tricky and can be dangerous. They require experience and precision work. Read the Om Dome article to learn about their experiences: http://www.earthbagbuilding.com/projects/omdome.htm
I doubt the vertical barbed wire would provide much strength, and it would be one more step and more materials. Domes work in compression with the forces going down and out. In contrast, vertical ribs work well in a basket where they provide tensile strength. If you added rigid vertical ribs (say, reinforced concrete) then that would allow for larger domes. Long tubes and stabilized soil also allows you to build larger sizes.
Building below grade is definitely putting the structure at risk of moisture damage. I only recommend this for small, low cost structures like storm shelters or rootcellars. After all, water runs downhill and even in deserts it’s not unusual to have cloud bursts with lots of rain. Instead, I typically build on grade and use earth berms or earth sheltering (pile earth around the finished structure). This also eliminates a lot of the digging.
I really appreciate your prompt responses. You really make a personal effort to be involved with these plans and the people who want them. I wish I had the position to be useful in this field. Hell, there isn’t anything else to do….
Thanks Dustin. I’ve turned this whole thing into a lifestyle. It’s not just a job. The pay is low, but my expenses are also low so it all works out. The main thing is to do what you love and then you don’t have to ‘work’.
Owen,
I like these clusters a lot. I wonder if the doorways between spaces could be expanded and arched so that they are more like 4 or 5 feet across. Also, would it be possible to timber frame instead of pole support these so that a vault would be created running up the wall and overhead, more English cottage style in nature? Really love these clusters and the native spirit tower house as well. I’d like to combine the two if possible, sort of stretched out along a hillside with berm in back. What do you think? All the best,
Dennis
You could make the doorways 4′ wide. They’re already arched, so no need for timber framing. Arches are stronger anyway. And yes, you can connect these as you’re proposing. A reader sent me a drawing of something similar about a month ago. Was this you?
No Owen. Wasn’t I. Thanks. I’m glad for the feedback. I’ll definitely get back to you when I’m a little further down the road with all this.
Dennis
I’m really interested in your hexagonal cluster homes and was wondering if you have built one or knew how to get in contact with someone who has that could give me some information on what the extra costs for the plumbing and electrical and building permits and if they had any problems with putting it in. I like the design because it can be expanded upon so easily but I need more undomation before I go talk to the county office to see if I can get it approved.
Are you referring to the Pod plans? https://earthbagplans.wordpress.com/2009/05/15/earthbag-pods/
These can be clustered as shown: https://earthbagplans.wordpress.com/2009/08/09/cluster-designs/
So yes, these designs have been ordered, but no word yet on what stage of construction they’re in.
Permit fees will vary widely depending on where you live. Contact your local building authorities, and plumbers and electricians for costs in your area. Take a copy of Earthbag Building by Doni and Kaki Hunter to show to your building department. You could describe the process as similar to putting plumbing and electric in adobe houses (slightly different than conventional construction, but no big deal).
I have forgotten who it was but I first found out about your website from a link posted on Twitter. . I really love the stuff I have read on your blog and plan to keep reading when I find more time. Do you have a Twitter profile?
Thanks. Glad you like the blog. No Twitter, but I get lots of emails!
Hi Owen,
Had the idea of a crawl tunnel between the two raised loft bedrooms. Could be an interesting variation, don’t you think?
You’d have to build a vault to connect the dome and roundhouse because the dome curves away from it. So it is possible, but I’m not sure it would be worth the extra work. I guess the kids would love it, eh?
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I have been researching this for about a year and have fallen in love with this design.I was wondering where i could get the blueprints?
All plans are available through Dream Green Homes: http://www.dreamgreenhomes.com/materials/earth/earthbags.htm
This particular plan is the last of the 30 most popular plans to be upgraded to AutoCAD. It’s being drawn now and should be finished shortly.
Update: Oops. Kelly hasn’t added it to his site yet. I’ll tell him right now.
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